Comfort in a bowl: why porridge is hotter than ever as fibremaxxers rediscover oats

New toppings, rising demand

Porridge is appearing in increasingly varied forms, from miso recipes online to restaurant bowls finished with fruit, nuts, cream or savoury toppings. At 26 Grains in central London, this month’s five-grain porridge comes with fig and red grape jam and whipped cream. Oatis in west London serves options including caramelised banana with tahini, as well as mushrooms and pesto.

Interest is showing up in shopping figures. Ocado searches for organic jumbo oats have climbed 98% year on year, while White’s jumbo oat sales have increased 56%. Rhodes describes porridge as a flexible base that can suit different tastes at the same family table.

Fibre fuels renewed interest

The online trend known as “fibremaxxing” encourages people to increase their fibre intake, even as interest in protein remains strong. The NHS recommends 30g of fibre a day for adults, but the British Dietetic Association puts average intake at 18g.

Oats contain soluble fibre, which is important for gut health and may help reduce cholesterol levels. The shift is prompting some people to choose porridge instead of protein-rich eggs at breakfast.

Tradition and technique

Coghill recently sampled 86 bowls of porridge while serving on the judging panel for the annual world porridge-making championship in the Scottish Highlands. She says purists favour coarser pinhead oats, also called steel-cut oats, over softer rolled oats, describing them as a way to celebrate Scottish heritage.

For a smooth texture, Coghill advises warming the pot gradually and stirring constantly with a spurtle. She says this method helps prevent the porridge from becoming gloopy.

Beyond the breakfast table

Porridge is also moving beyond morning menus. Hely-Hutchinson says customers are receptive to simple dishes and can be frustrated when porridge disappears from menus after 3pm. Rhodes sees room to explore oats in new ways, much as bakers experiment with wheat. She says there are many avenues for pushing the ingredient further.