Skincare Routine Trouble? Here Are Signs Your Skin Barrier May Be Damaged

When stronger products backfire

Teens and preteens are increasingly buying potent anti-aging products, while some consumers equate stronger ingredients and more products with better results, says Stephanie Criscione, an esthetician and education director at Face Reality. Ingredients including glycolic acid, retinoids, and benzoyl peroxide can treat acne, but Samantha Susca, a New York City esthetician and founder of Refinery4, cautions that improper use can cause problems. Celebrity-promoted products may also leave consumers with the mistaken impression that a single bottle can recreate a celebrity’s complexion.

Recognizing skin barrier irritation

The skin barrier helps retain moisture and protect against outside irritants. When compromised, skin may become dry, tight, red, or unusually sensitive; irritation can also worsen breakouts for people with acne-prone skin.

Susca says symptoms may emerge after a few days, including tightness, itching, discomfort, and redness. Recovery varies with the level of irritation and can take weeks to months, rather than happening overnight.

Choosing a careful response

Taking a break from exfoliants or acne treatments can feel worrying for people managing breakouts, but continuing products that irritate the skin may make the problem harder to manage. A complicated routine with multiple active ingredients is not necessarily the best approach, particularly for younger users.

Treatment should reflect a person’s skin type, concerns, and tolerance, with professional guidance when needed. For sensitive skin, Susca discusses lower concentrations or short-contact benzoyl peroxide, as well as azelaic acid; persistent irritation, painful inflammation, or breakouts that are not improving are reasons to consult a dermatologist.